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There are two versions of the Squad 1000. The standard Squad 1000 Meter Automatic in sandblasted matte steel, and the Squad 1000 Meter Black Automatic... done in PVD black. The case is 45mm wide with off-centered lefty crown located at 10 o'clock. The design of the case along with the dial reminds me a lot of the Fortis B-42 MarineMaster. Whether or not Laco used that Fortis as inspiration is unclear, but the similarities are uncanny. The dial is good looking and very easy to read with its combo of large indicators and Arabic numerals. Laco opts for a white hour hand mixed to a orange minute hand. The design decision does tend to add some welcome color to the otherwise highly functional look. While perhaps not as "showy" as the Fortis, the Laco Squad 1000's dial feels better proportioned.
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
(MANY OF WHICH ARE MAJOR TECHNICAL INNOVATIONS)Read more ›
Ceramic is a bit lighter than steel, and is very (very) scratch and wear resistant. For me, this makes it a really tough to pass up material. Aside from the screws, I think most of the case and bracelet are ceramic. There is also supposed to be a black tinted sapphire crystal over the caseback - but the prototype I saw didn't have that.
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Also impressive are the Piaget Emperador XL Flying Tourbillon Dragon watches. There are 18k rose gold and white gold versions - with and without diamonds. These are going to be extremely pricey timepieces due to the tourbillon complications and the massive amount of diamonds. In addition to the tourbillon models Piaget will offer slightly more reasonable Piaget Emperador Dragon models. These have more simple Piaget made automatic movements and just the time. There will also be diamonds and non-diamond versions.
Art on a watch can come in many forms. The dial can literally be a painting, or the design of the instrument itself is where the art comes in. For many people, the movement contains as much art as the case and dial. Art is the expressive elements placed over the necessary functional parts - so almost every watch has at least a bit.Read more ›
One of the main drawbacks of quartz watches is the need to change the batteries from time to time. Movements such as the Seiko Solar and Citizen Eco-Dive have batteries in the movements that are charged by photovoltaic cells in the watch. The lifespan of these movements (assuming they don't break or malfunction) should be close to one's lifespan. This is due to the tiny amount of power the movements consume, and the fact that on a full charge the watches can last months without light.Read more ›
The comfort level for this large watch is rather impressive. A watch this complex that will fit under a sleeve is rare. Now that ultra-thin part comes in handy. Like I keep saying, ultra thin watches are great as along as they aren't ultra small. This watch (along with the message from the Altiplano 43) furthers Piaget's CEO's message that thin watches don't need to be narrow. Broad and svelte is the way to go.Read more ›
"I feel embarrassed for the industry today in general, I find it very unjust that certain (brands/people) have sold watches 10 times more expensive than what they are really worth. It will take me about a week to make each one of my watches, so how is it possible for certain brands to make over 10,000 pieces a year with only 20 or so watchmakers in their workshops? If we do the math, that means an average of 10 watches a week per watchmaker, without considering vacations! It's becoming more urgent to sell watches for their real worth, like everything in life. I expect a beneficial effect from the current economic crisis, in the sense that going forward the collector will be more discerning about their new watch purchases."Read more ›
- Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
- Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
- Open-worked ratchet and wheel
- Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
- No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
- Fine adjustment system for the retrograde display returnspring
The analog size is simple and easy to read. Just the time with a subsidiary seconds dials - and it is super elegant. Really love this dial for combining what I like about the Monaco dial, Tag Heuer sportiness, and attention to function that I appreciate in the brand. This side is powered by a mechanical movement which is cool. The down side is that it has a manually-wound movement (Tag Heuer Calibre 2). I get that Tag Heuer used this because an automatic would have likely been too thick, but I still yearn for this to have an automatic movement in it.
Hands-on with the Shabaka watch was very interesting. I have been fascinated by the Art Deco-themed watch by Jean Dunand since it came out a few years ago. Jean Dunand is an interesting super-high-end brand that produces exclusively "piece unique" creations. On my wrist is an 18k white gold Shabaka with a baguette diamond-lined bezel.Read more ›
A case for example alone requires dozens of steps. Some people have the notion that with modern technology you just throw a chunk of metal into a fancy cutting machine and it comes out perfectly cut and polished – ready for action. The Reverso case is a great example of something that involves many parts and dozens of small operations. An operation is having that part placed in a special machine or process. Such operations range from being set in dedicated machines whose only purpose it to drill two small holes in the case - to having the lugs finished and polished in several steps by both machine and hand.
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Today, the idea of custom work from a major brand doesn't often cross the minds many. I think Westerners aren't as used to it as Easterners. In fact, in the watch world, most customization is done for Asian people. Yes, it is a cultural thing, but I think people there are more used to the concept that they can ask. Would you, for instance, assume that you can go into a Vacheron Constantin boutique and ask for a totally custom watch? Well, you can.
Partially openworked 22-carat gold oscillating weight with anthracite galvanic treatment
Bulova opted for a curved crystal that I believe is coated mineral glass, for these watches. The curvature is nice but offers some visual distortion making it look a bit like you are seeing the dial inside of a bubble. The modern dial design combines relatively good legibility with all sort of little details, textures, and things to look at. The hands are lume covered and big enough to see without too much distraction. There is an open date window that uses a black disc. The color is good, but I am never a fan of open "extended" date windows. There are four screws on the dial to match the look of those on the case, and the carbon fiber is deep feeling. For me the prominent hour markers and hands make it enough to appreciate. While it lacks a European sense of design refinement (as is the case with most Japanese analog watches - but not all), it is enough given the theme and technology.Read more ›