"We are reaching the mechanical limits of how precise a chronograph using traditional techniques can be." Jean-Christophe is basically saying that there isn't going to be much more beyond the Mikrogirder in terms of precision. If you want to get crazy precise you go electronic he admits. He likens the issue to plane engines using a propeller and then jet engines. There is just so fast a prop can go before you no longer have the power or structural integrity to turn it. Jets are great for distance but for short intervals they just require too much power. The Mikrogirder itself pushes the limit of technology with an incredibly high frequency chronograph that has only 4 minutes of power reserve. The time telling part of the watch has more of course as it relies on a more traditional system to power it.
As a 300 meter diver the watch has a sapphire crystal and screw-down crown (placed at 4 o'clock). Even as a new brand RedSea got a lot of the little details correct. This includes a relatively refined dial and a black date disc to match the face. Feeling like a high quality watch, the only thing I would recommend is to see how they can improve the look of the bezel. This is nit-picky, but the bezel, while looking very nice, makes it clear that the ring is an insert. Most bezel rings are inserts, but the difference in plane levels between the outer bezel and the ring sort of disrupts the illusion. Really a tiny thing.
Tissot begins with a Swiss ETA Unitas 6497 manually wound mechanical movement. This movement is often chosen when skeletonization is called for as you can really scrape out a lot of its guts to see how it all works. It even helps the basic movement look extremely beautiful when artfully skeletonized and engraved. What Tissot did here is clever. Offer a fully skeletonized watch, but one that is also still legible. The dial of the piece is more or less in tact when it comes to having all of the hour and minute indicators. Coming with a black or silver dial, Tissot uses sporty looking Roman numerals and a full scale of minutes as well as even the 24 hour time. Cut into the dial is an opening that looks like an upside down mushroom. This window does not interfere with telling the time, and gives you a view right into the movement.
I got a sneak preview of this watch a few months ago and am happy to now be able to show it to you. This is the Artya Perpetual Calendar watch - it combines an exclusive manufacture movement with a surprisingly clean and technical design from the "art watch" brand. The Perpetual Calendar will be available as 10 limited edition pieces. Each piece will have its own materials and colors so that it is totally unique.
The ring is then cut and shaped into the bezel insert. Most bezels are inserts that fit into the rotating bezel mechanism. The colored ceramic ring is carefully cut and then polished. Ceramic is very hard so cutting them is a slow and difficult process. The next step is to engrave the bezel markers and numerals. This is done with a special laser engraver. According to Omega it takes about 15 minutes to engrave just one bezel with the laser. At this point you have a perfectly shaped ceramic bezel with the indicators engraved into its surface.
The 43mm wide wide case with its thin bezel and short lugs help the watch feels substantial. On the wrist it looks genteel but manly. Size is fantastic, and I like that Piaget kept it wide. Piaget's CEO shares this ideal. Saying that while thin watches will always be part of Piaget's honored tradition, that doesn't mean they need to seem petite.
Good luck, and thanks to Omega watches and Omega watch fans!
Collecting Vintage Omega Watches
27 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Collecting Vintage Omega Watches
For me, there are two reasons to get a Grand Seiko watch, the Hi-Beat movement which is a specialty of Seiko, as well as the Spring Drive movement. The special movement, case, and heritage complete the Japanese package for me. Emotionally it just wouldn't be the same with the more typical (though still in-house made) automatic movement or the quartz model. Yes, you get a lot of movement options in Grand Seiko range, but those are my choice picks. Grand Seiko will always have special meaning to me, one that I keep realizing each time I get more excited about a watch like this than I do a new 0,000 Swiss tourbillon based timepiece. Look for these where Grand Seiko watches are sold.
Please welcome Stephen Hallock, President of MB&F watches as a guest on this episode of HourTime. He discusses getting in to the watch industry, dealing with the Swiss, and what it is like being in the luxury watch industry.
The full list of winners:
- “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: De Bethune, DB28
- Best Ladies’ Watch Prize: Boucheron, Crazy Jungle Hathi
- Best Men’s Watch Prize: Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Suspendu
- Best Design Watch Prize: Urwerk, UR-110
- Best Jewellery and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Polar Landscape
- Best Complicated Watch Prize: Zenith, Academy Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
- Best Sports Watch Prize: TAG Heuer, Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Chronograph
- “Petite Aiguille” Prize (for models under CHF 5’000): Montblanc, Star Worldtime GMT Automatic
- Best Watchmaker Prize: Vianney Halter
- Special Jury Prize: Patek Philippe Museum
- Public Prize: Audemars Piguet, Millenary 4101
Ril is kind enough to include two straps to complete your retro fantasy. There is a "racing stripe" NATO G10 strap and a metal bracelet. The NATO strap is pretty straight forward, nothing more to say on that. The watch looks nice as paired to it. The metal bracelet isn't bad actually I like that it tapers and uses screwed-in links. It also has a diver's extension (which is totally silly because given the low water resistance you shouldn't dive with this watch), with a double safety clasp like that a Submariner from a few generations ago. The weakness there is in the deployment clasp. It uses a folded, rather than milled steel, which has it feeling a bit tinny and thin. It also has a few too many sharp angles on it. Though when you are wearing the watch - these aren't a bother.
• 18-carat pink gold
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.1 mm (including the sapphire crystal)
• Polished and satin-brushed finish
My thanks to Christoper Ward for the review watch - as I plan to keep it, I'll be placing a bracelet order soon!
For the dial Romain Jerome is furthering their steampunk-style aesthetic to a partially skeletonized open dial with clear indicators but also a view of the movement. You can see that RJ is using the "solar" style tourbillon carriage. I believe that the movement is likely manually wound and made by Concept. It has the time with subsidiary seconds dial, tourbillon, and thirty minute monopusher chronograph. The pusher is located above the crown. I like the dial but would have preferred that Romain Jerome differentiate the design of the chronograph subdial versus the subsidiary seconds dial. As far as I can tell they are the same aside from the design of the gear in the skeletonized area behind the dial in the movement.