Functional, comfortable, understated. At 14.2mm thick, it's medium thick and quite shirt-friendly due to the tapered bezel.The lug and caseback shape helps it sit solidly on your wrist:
The movement will still have a vertically mounted tourbillon, and look as fantastic as ever. In my opinion the movements that Eric Coudray create are among the most beautiful and visually fantastic in the world. More machine than art, he exhibits the craft of machine miniaturization wonderfully. I will wait to see the Cabestan Trapezium eagerly and hopefully offer a full report. Price according to Cabestan will be 240,000 Swiss Francs.
OK, so no for some interesting history on why there are two pieces. The cleaner looking dial was meant for the European market, while the other dial was meant for the United Stats market. Note that the brand name is different on them. In Europe consumers got a Jaeger-LeCoultre, while Americans got a LeCoultre watch. Now why is that? Stephane Belmont, product manager at JLC told me the story. At the time JLC was not allowed to use the "Jaeger-LeCoultre" name in the US for intellectual property reasons. Not totally sure why that is, but it was not until later on that JLC obtained the rights to use its full brand name in the US. For that reason, you have two different brand name.
Using the standard 47mm wide Artya steel case, this "bullets for brains" Son of a Gunwatch places six very small Flobert 6mm rounds around the automatic Swiss movement (which is placed in the center of the dial. A design on the bezel and inner dial hearken to targeting sights. The latter element is kitschy but acceptable. I am pretty sure the Flobert bullets are live rounds.
The Ari watch is a women's piece, though it is a larger piece. It is more long and skinny on the wrist actually. The manually would movement created by Eva Leube is like a stretched pocket watch movement with a large single mainspring barrel and a large escapement that runs at 18,000 bph. Like the case, the movement is steeply curved to create an arch. In the middle is the display for the time, topped by a subsidiary seconds hand. At the top is the balance spring. For comfort and symmetry, the crown is located at the bottom of the watch. You'll also find a metal crown guard as part of the strap. The design and layout of the dial is very satisfying - though the inclusion of a power reserve indicator would have really be the icing on the cake.
If it sounds like I am being hard on this watch, it is because I want it to be better. There are just too many "cut corners" to validate the price of 599 British Pounds. That is currently over 0. Nearing the ,000 mark you have a lot of options out there. For example there is a Marcello C. Nettuno 3 (that I reviewed here), that is currently priced just over ,000 (but used to be about 0). Oh, and another good example is MkII watches. Not that I am saying you should get a Nettuno 3 rather than a Ril - but you should know that for that price, almost all the complaints I have with the Ril don't exist in another Rolex Submariner homage (and Marcello C. is not a large company). If the Ril Scuba watch was priced at 0 - 0, I would suggest it was a decent buy. The good news is that it has a solid design, and if the quality improved, I don't see why Ril couldn't ask for ,000 or more for it. Right now this is a good watch that is due for getting a bit better.
This watch was never intended for retail sale, but somehow was sold to the public. Apparently these models mostly had Vacheron Constantin movements in them, but Movado may have later included manually wound Movado movements if they were to be sold through a retail store. The piece itself is 33mm wide in 18k white gold with that iconic face - you can see the auction page to read more.
The design of the UR-1001 case is very much inline with the design of Urwerk's watches. It looks ergonomic from a holding standing point and the large crown is located at the top. If you are familiar with Urwerk timepieces you'll instantly recognize this as a member of the brand. I overall like how the case acts as a frame for the internal components, but I think that the integration of the screws on the case (especially the back) could have been a bit more refined. On the rear of the UR-1001 is a flap that opens and closes to reveal some of the additional complication.
At 33mm wide by 53mm tall, the case is a nice hefty size. The brand offers other cases styles as well. The watch has a sapphire crystal (could be AR coated) over the dial. On this model the dial is a very beautiful mother-of-pearl. It is really a gorgeous example of the material. On it are printed Arabic hour numerals. The dial is clearly very classic in its design, but I wish there was a bit more contrast with the hands for slightly more optimized legibility. They aren't too bad though, and there is little bits of lume applied on the tips of the hands. Seconds are shown via a subsidiary seconds dial.
On the wrist however the tonneau-shaped case begins to sell itself. The dial is still round and the case feels natural on the wrist. Cases such as those also tend to compliment one's wrist visually. References to the BR01 are clear. There are the four large screws on the case as well as the dial which is inspired by the aviator look of the BR01. Having said that, the dial does feel appropriate for a dive watch and does not feel misplaced.
As heritage pieces these are fun and the story that goes along with them is priceless (especially for Milus). Not sure about prices but look for them to be available now or soon. I think all people need to call around life bartering kits by the way, what would be in yours?
You can see the design of the 45mm wide case made up of steel with parts of it done in black. Not sure of the how the black was done. It has an interesting texture to it that I am not sure I am familiar with. Like many other high-end Bovet watch, this one is in the "pocket watch" style case with the bow at the top, and is a convertible. They refer to this as their "Amadeo case" style. The straps can be quick released and the watch can turn into a pendant, pocket watch, or the back folded down to make it a table clock. Cool right? The system actually works rather well, and doesn't feel haphazard in design.
I previously discussed the Sporting Watch with Elm Burl Wood dial here. Now however I have the full hands-on experience and get to show this watch off. Of course the first thing I noticed was the wood on the dial - and is much nicer than the faux plastic wood in that old Buick you once had. It looks very nice and will never appear to be anything but real polished and treated wood. Unlike Mr. Lauren, I don't get to drive around in vintage (or new) Bugattis, but wearing this watch made me feel just one step closer to being... his valet driver.
If you are in Le Brassus and want to see the Audemars Piguet museum, I recommend it. Hopefully they will be able to "restore" the full collection in due time.
"Diastar" has been hipped down to "D-Star," which is supposed to make the collection sound more cool. The slightly oval, oblong case is much like the original, but the sporty dial and subtle nature of the watch are a modern treat. In fact, this is probably an easy watch to brush off at first glance as being nothing special. Wear it on the wrist for a while and a design like this will quickly grow on you. The case is in black ceramic... in pure Rado style. Here done in a matte finish. The case is 42mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters.
This is likely to be unlike any other Seiko Ananta watch you've ever seen before (or will ever see). For 2011 Seiko worked with a Japanese "conceptor" to create this limited edition watch called the Ananta NS_Concept (ref. SPB023J). The watch uses an existing Seiko in-house made movement but offers a new modern design that I think works.
Now the Pathfinder name has been retired to streamline the collection with the naming system used for the rest of the world which is Casio "Pro Trek." Until recently Casio was unable to use the Pro Trek name in the United States due to a intellectual property issue with Trek bicycles. The two brands formed an agreement and now Casio will will be able to use the Pro Trek naming system in the US. Starting this year you should be seeing newly branded Pro Trek watches. Finally, we can feel more like Europe and Japan.
My fav is the "for no reason rather than it is a new year" limited edition Mille Miglia GL XL Chrono 2010 with its pretty perlage polished metal dial and larger 44mm wide steel case. Inside both watches is a base Swiss ETA 7750 automatic chronograph movement with custom Chopard engraved rotors. The movements are both COSC Chronometer certified. Mille Miglia dials have always been relatively clear. The 2010 GL XL Chrono doesn't stray from that too much. The perlage dial has applied hour markers (with lume), and easy to spot hands and subsidiary chronograph dials. Certainly a very masculine timepiece that few men can say without a doubt that they would not proudly wear. Though I could easily do without the "12" and "6" numerals applied to the sapphire crystal. Of course it has the typical Mille Miglia porthole leather strap (alternative is always the 1960s Dunlop tire tread rubber strap).