In a good looking polished steel case, the Glashütte Original Senator Observer is a bold 44mm wide and just 12mm thick. Unfortunately, with a water resistance of just 50 meters, this isn’t a swimming watch. Over the dial is a well AR-coated sapphire crystal, and there is another over the movement on the exhibition caseback. The brushed finishing on the sides of the case offer additional sporty design value.
Victor Marks: A co-worker had the modern Milgauss with green crystal, and the history of the original, with its divergence from typical Rolex traits, the honeycomb dial texture, the unusual hour markers, and that distinctive lightning bolt second hand fascinated me. They all screamed, "Everything you'd expect a Rolex to look like, this ain't it," knowing full well that Rolexes never scream, they quietly and politely comment, and they also use proper formal negative contractions, like "isn't."
The other twist the Ball Trainmaster Kelvin has for us shows up on the dial side, in the placement of the date window. It shows up at the 2 o'clock position, which I do not know that I have ever seen before. As far as layouts go, it's ok enough, and it keeps from seeming like things are crowding in on the temperature display.
Oysterflex is pretty cool, actually, and I do hope that Rolex rolls out this new strap option to other watches. We will likely see that in the future, but Rolex isn't saying more about it. Oysterflex is not made from natural rubber, even though it feels almost exactly like it. The structure of the bracelet begins with a metal "blade" (a titanium nickel alloy) that creates a base shape and allows it to fit securely. One of the most interesting elements on the strap are the "fins" underneath that are designed to create a cushion between the strap and your wrist. This allows for your wrist to expand and contract a bit while the strap remains comfortable and snug, and also helps vent the inner part of the strap a bit on hot days. It is a great feeling strap made out of an "elastomer" material which is connected to an 18k rose gold deployant clasp.
There is a distinct line in the sand separating people who consider themselves to be serious watch lovers. Some watch people will wear a timepiece from a "fashion brand" and some simply will not. With the Louis Vuitton name on the dial, there are a lot of people who will simply have no interest in these watches - and for them, LVMH has other things to offer. Those that will wear a "fashion brand" watch are perhaps more open-minded but demand a lot. There must be a fluid integration behind the design, value, movement quality, and overall presentation.
One of the coolest things about the hour display complication (and this is real geek-fodder) is the way the hours are flicked over by a Maltese cross based on the brand's logo. The effect of this floating numeral that languidly points to the time would be jarringly digital, were its operation not so peaceful. There is no visible haste in this design, as there could not have been in its creation. Similarly patient is the balance, which beats away at a relatively glacial 19,800vph.
The second watch to receive the all-new DUW 3001 is the Nomos Tangente Automatik, a new version of Nomos' award winning best seller. Originally designed in 1992, the Nomos Tangente is likely the physical icon of Nomos' Bauhaus aesthetic. While the automatic Nomos Tangomat has been available since 2005, it has a 38mm case, which is some 3mm larger than that of the hand-wound Nomos Tangente. The Nomos Tangente Automatik, thanks to the use of the DUW 3001, maintains the very-successful 35mm sizing of the Nomos Tangente but adds automatic winding. Even in adding automatic winding, the Nomos Tangente Automatik is only 0.3 mm thicker than its hand-wound older brother, coming in at a remarkably thin 6.9 mm.
So, what watch does one wear to the Academy Awards as a first-time Oscar nominee? Admittedly, this was a new first-world problem for Tom Cross, who, as editor of the film Whiplash, recently received an Academy Award nomination for "Best Editing" - one of five Oscars Whiplash is up for this year. UPDATE: Tom Cross received the Academy Award (as well as Independent Spirit Award) for Film Editing for the movie Whiplash. This was a scenario Tom Cross did not anticipate when he started work on the labor-of-love indie drama. “We were just happy to find out we got in to Sundance,” explains Cross of Whiplash’s long, unexpected trajectory: first debuting at the 2014 Sundance Film Festival, then becoming one of - if not the - most acclaimed films of the year.
Let's discuss the movement inside of the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watch just one more time, since we are on the topic of it. It is the in-house produced caliber A&S1615 manually wound movement with about 90 hours of power reserve operating at 21,600 bph. While it looks like there are double power reserve indicators, they don't do exactly the same thing. As I understand it, the A&S1615 movement has two mainspring barrels. One of them kicks in as the primary mainspring winds down and loses torque. At that point, the secondary mainspring kick is to preserve isochronism (as best as possible). This roughly means that the movement design is meant to preserve accuracy as power winds down in the spring that powers it.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 is based on old Patek Philippe hour angle watches that helped pilots calculate their position when used in tandem with a sextant and a radio. The exact reference pieces, which are also known as siderometers, are on display at the Patek Philippe museum and were used to inform the design of this sporty new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time reference 5524.
"Cost of Entry" is a new column series on aBlogtoWatch that explores what it costs to purchase the least expensive model offered by a popular watch company. In each installment, we will seek out and discuss in detail the most affordable currently available model from some of the most desirable watch brands on the market. We will mostly focus on men's watches unless we specifically mention otherwise.