Time, chronograph, and date are managed by a Sinn-customized ETA 7750, which they call the SZ02. The SZ02 has 25 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph with a 60-minute chronograph. The chronograph is read via a full 60 minute sub dial at six, and this layout conforms to what Sinn calls a "mission timer," or a watch with a very specific purpose and strong legibility. Sound familiar?
I scream, you scream, we all scream for steel Pateks! Even a casual watch enthusiast will likely recognize the importance of a Baselworld where Patek Philippe launched two new complicated steel watches. We showed you the new 5960 annual calendar chronograph here, but now it's time to check out my favorite of this new duo from Patek, the 5990 Nautilus. Combining the chronograph capability of the 5980 with the dual time zone complication of the 5164A Aquanaut, the 5990 offers two sporting complications in an attractive and versatile package from one of the biggest names in watchmaking.
On the Meister Telemeter, what speaks to me the most is the overall style of the piece. I have a bit of a thing for these retro-styled pieces, as I've not yet quite made the jump into truly vintage timepieces. Here, you have the best of both worlds in a sense ; "old school" style paired with modern manufacturing and reliability.
Movement decoration: palladium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, dial plate NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with beveled and mirror- polished heads
True beat seconds bridges: rose gold treated, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges
Oscillating weight: rhodium treated, skeletonised with brushed surfaces
Mechanically, the tourbillon in this 1815 model has two interesting features that have never before existed together in a tourbillon. Back when A. Lange & Sohne originally released the Cabaret Tourbillon in 2008, they introduced the first ever tourbillon with a hacking seconds (stop seconds) feature. That means that when you pull the crown out the tourbillon stops until you push the crown back in. The purpose of this feature in watches is to allow for a more precise setting of the time.
While there are some others, the real masters of "ultra-thin" are brands like Piaget, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and perhaps Arnold & Son (who released the world's thinnest tourbillon watches with the UTTE (reviewed here) - though we will see what they continue to do in that department in the future. Ultra-thin movements are very interesting, but at some point how thin is thin enough? And beyond some threshold point does more thinness matter for wearability? I'd say that anything 5mm or less is going to wear pretty much the same, being of a similar practical height on your wrist. When you start to shave off fractional amounts of size you are simply getting into the realm of bragging rights. But that is OK. Toys for grown men are frequently about being able to brag to your friends.
In addition, the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial will be available in 6 versions in a variety of materials including steel, titanium, 18k Sedna gold and 950 platinum. The 6 versions are steel, titanium, steel/ Sedna gold, titanium/ Sedna gold, Sedna gold and platinum The Sedna gold pieces also feature Omega’s Ceragold technology ceramic bezel, which allows the bonding of 18k gold to ceramic.
The L1 watch takes a familiar Maurice de Mauriac style case sized at 39mm wide in steel, and adds a domed AR coated sapphire crystal and a simple brushed finishing. The presentation is attractive, but demurely utilitarian and timeless. The real magic is in the dial, which is an attractively functional design I think all watch lovers can appreciate.
If you are the type of studious watch lover that is more than aware that next week is the beginning of Baselworld 2014, then please disregard this public service announcement and rest assured we will bring you coverage of the the best new stuff in due course. For everyone else, we'd like to remind you that March 26th is the beginning of Baselworld, the most important watch trade show of the year, and of course we will be there.