Even after a few years on the market, the Seamaster Ploprof 1200M is a strong seller, but it isn't cheap. Then again, it wasn't cheap back in the early 1970s either. Has the design become more sexy over the years? Even by female standards? I can't speak for women, but I think it certainly has gained a degree of honorary elegance given what it is. No one I presented the watch to thought it was unattractive. As I discussed above, I think anyone can appreciate its tool watch spirit, as well as find great and sincere beauty in that fact. As an instrument, it works rather flawlessly. Retail price for the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M watch is ,400 on the strap and ,700 on the bracelet (as seen ref. 18.104.22.168.01.001).
- Steel or 18 ct rose gold
- Total diameter 42.40 mm
- Thickness 14.87 mm
- Water resistance 50 metres
- Steel or 18ct rose gold crown with Mille Miglia arrow logo
- Steel and rubber or 18ct rose gold pushers
- Glareproofed sapphire crystal with integrated magnifying glass and transferred black 6 and 12 o’clock markings
- Closed and circular-grained back with 1000 Miglia arrow
The red GMT hand and the 24 hours markers are not hard to read, however, one needs to remember that the GMT hand moves around the dial in 24 hours with 2 hours step markers (slightly noted on the inner dial). This can be confusing at first since when showing odd hours the GMT hand will be between two regular hour markers... However, once you get used to it then it works fine and since the hours hands can be changed to move by itself freely, the GMT can then be used to set the home time when traveling to different timezones.
MTM is an American company based out of here in Los Angeles. You get that nice "USA" label on the back of the case in addition to their dagger logo. I think they should supply a dagger like that with the watches. You do however get a nice Pelican case carrrying box. Those cases are damn useful actually. Inside the MTM Falcon as I said is a custom made movement for MTM. It is quartz, and I believe Japanese. The Titanium Black on Black Falcon is among the more expensive pieces in the collection at a price of 0. The Falcon pieces however start at about 0 in steel. This piece might be worth the additional expense because the combo of titanium and DLC coating offer reduced weight without the easy scratching you usually get with naked titanium. You can get this and other MTM timepieces via their website here.
Images and text by Adam Morin
Still new, the Ralph Lauren Sporting watch doesn't need a revolutionary change, but does benefit from these additional models. The Chronograph look suits it really well, as does the three hand style on the Automotive. It is true that the watch is getting dressed up like a fashion piece, but don't forget the name of the brand.
Like all legends, it is hard not to want one of these. Owning one will either have you entering a Bulgari boutique or finding one of the other older Gefica watches out there. I for one have had a soft place in my heart for the Gefica collection for years. The deep, functional, beautiful dial is lovely to look at - and the case is a work of art and intrigue unto itself. This is a real emotional watch, and a well-done one at that. The Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is part of a limited edition of just 199 pieces. Each is priced at 18,900 Swiss Francs. www.bulgari.com
Fashion editors and people of those ranks continue to sully the watch world with their questions on style trends and what is going be hot for spring and summer. Brands like to have the people writing for mass audience consumer publications that they advertise in come to the watch shows because it would be awesome for them to get some actual editorial coverage. That unfortunately isn’t going to happen because the average writer and reader of those publications doesn’t know about or care about watches (for the most part, and there are some really great notable exceptions). Unless they are colorful under watches which do get a fair amount of coverage it seems. I am actually glad that the fashion people are there because I want them to see the world I love so much, but my advice to watch brands is to stop pretending that you are fashion brands. Be stalwart that you release nice new watches each year based on a range of factors that hopefully don’t include fashion trends or what is going to look “so hot” in the fall with orange and brown. I know I sound like a snob saying that, but that isn’t what makes this industry tick. This is an industry of half marketing people, have engineers. Each focused on making marketable wrist machines that tell the time for a long time. These items aren’t meant to be (for the most part) disposable, and are intended as lifetime investments. The current fashion industry is about disposable clothes and quickly changing color and style trend announcements so that they have something to actually “write” (list) about. That just doesn’t meld with the watch industry, and I hope it never does.
While Baume & Mercier continues its modern quest for an image and direction, they are still at least producing good quality relatively affordable Swiss watches. The Capeland collection is in the ,000 range, which while not actually cheap, is still a number that the brand's target demographic is more than comfortable with. More details on the Capeland here @ Baume & Mercier.
I asked Weiner if he at all anticipated the influence on style that the show would have. As it isn't possible to anticipate a show's success, it is hard to know in advance the type of effect it will have on pop culture. Weiner seemed to express that the style-shift focusing on post-war booming America was almost inevitable, and that he was just following what he loves. His carefree attitude reflects more interest in the authenticity of the show's look and feel versus how people react to it. It is a good sentiment for a creative type - to focus more on creating a perfect world re-creation versus worrying about how others might respond to it.
Those on a relative budget wanting a nice sport watch should take a good look at the 1972 collection of timepieces from German brand Junghans. Often known for their atomic clock controlled watches, Junghans has an interesting assortment of both modern and vintage inspired quartz or mechanical watches. The 1972 collection takes direction and inspiration from sport-themed watches made in that era. Though, there is a slick modern edge to the designs which fits the brand's larger collection of timepieces. I do enjoy how they took a classic look and updated it a bit.
Jaquet Droz automata didn’t end with birds. A range of animals and humans were created in an endless assortment of incredibly decadent items. Again, these were marketed toward the ultra-wealthy, who wanted each to be more magnificent than the last. In an age of electronics, computers, and robots, these two centuries old mechanical creations don’t at all fail to put a smile on your face when seeing them operate today.
Sarpaneva revised the date wheel mechanism on the HM3 to insert the moon phase. I believe it required the formation of a new disc which rather than having a 31 day cycle, would have an approximately 29.5 day cycle (the lunar cycle). It is a clever way of integrating a moon phase indicator into a watch without modifying the movement too much. Sarpaneva actually does this with the Soprod movements he uses in his own watches.
The dials are bold and simple with an attractive design. They aren't ultra unique, but again they are deeply satisfying. You have a sloped flange ring for legibility purposes and large applied hour markers. Both the hour indexes and hands have SuperLumiNova applied to them. Swarovski will offer the Octea Abyssal Automatic in three versions to start. There is a steel case with while dial, black PVD steel case with black dial, and an orange and black version with a curious case made out of aluminum. That latter model looks incredible, but the aluminum might prove too delicate for "abyssal" use.
Seiko clearly wanted to select three good guys and three bad guys for the watches. Though the choice of characters is a bit strange. Darth Vader and Yoda make total sense. The Stormtrooper makes for a good aesthetic choice, and while not on the top of my list, the pair of droids is acceptable with the lovable R2-D2 and C-3PO. They would have been on a classic trilogy roll, and then all of a sudden there is a Darth Maul watch from the new collection. I guess he makes for a good design influence, but I just don't see fans being really attached to this character. They could have done a more classy boardroom style watch in honor of the Emperor. Seiko themselves claimed that while they clearly wanted Star Wars designed watches, their goal was to produce timepieces that you could easily get away with wearing in an office setting. This really makes me want to work at one of Seiko's offices. Anyhow, where is a Luke or Han Solo watch? Actually, I think I might have guessed the reason while typing that. Most all Star Wars products you see these days are of characters without actor recognizable faces. Seiko might have had to get separate agreements with Mark Hamill or Harrison Ford if they wanted Luke or Han Solo watches and to use their likeness on them or to use their faces in marketing images. I could be wrong but this makes sense. Anyhow...
Here's the steel buckle on the wrist, protruding just a bit.