Display Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock; central chronograph seconds hand;
1. Comment on this post below with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention why you love mechanical watches more than quartz movement (most battery based) watches.
Another little change from the original Dual Tow to the NightEagle is the style of the tourbillon. The bridge now has Claret's double C motif. Both watches are mechanically the same, but the NightEagle has enough cosmetic changes to make it different. I have a feeling the NightEagle will cost even more than the original - especially given the hard to make sapphire bridges in the dial. At the same time, the original is available with a gold case, while the NightEagle is in titanium. Either way, the prices are massive (in the half million dollar range), so if you are eager to get involved in getting one, ten thousand dollars here, or ten thousand dollars there isn't likely going to perturb you. For me, I was excited to meet Christophe Claret and check out his new cool toy.
The case is large and quite nicely finished at 50mm tall by 38mm wide. Though as you can tell, the soft curves and tapered edges don't make the size stick out much. Notice the organic way it adapts to life on one's wrist. The custom leather strap (with the iconic red colored underbelly Marvin watches are known for) is very wide at 28mm between the lugs and tapers down to 22mm wide at the Marvin signed steel buckle.
The watch is large but really comfortable. These watches are meant to make a statement. At 47mm wide, I am surprised the piece fits so well on my wrist, but it does. Case is in steel and black PVD coated. Stefan opted for a thin bezel so that you could get maximum dial size. This design is actually quite uncommon on pieces this big. Though at the same time future Stefan Johansson Vaxjo watches are going to have a case and bezel redesign. The smooth looking black case is not the highlight of the piece, and the design makes that clear. The case is good looking and comfy, but like I said, your eyes are pulled toward the dial. The Mark VIII line has quite a lot of dial treatments to choose from. Stefan likes playing with the look. Each has a common personality though, and I think you will appreciate how he plays with the core concept that is the watch. The watches each contain a decorated Swiss ETA automatic Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement. The subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o'clock is removed for a more symmetrical dial. If you need to count the seconds, you can simply use the chronograph.
For me, this watch is about offering the functionality and feature set excepted in Citizen and other similar Japanese watches, but in a very classic, simple looking design. A major philosophy in Japanese tech watches like this is the "set it and forget it principle." Which is actually a bit different than the European ideal of constantly attending to your watch. Actually, I think the same philosophy exists in the respective cars made by the Japanese and the Europeans. After being initially set, and given the availability of light, the World Perpetual AT watch should pretty much always have power, accurate time, and the accurate date.
The case is 200 meters watch resistant that Raymond Weil is apparently very proud of. This is ultra standard for more timepieces of this type, but they feel as though the watch is "exceptionally resilient and water-resistant." I am starting to think that if the person who wrote this was a woman and was on a date, it would go really well for the guy. Really, no matter what he was like, she would flatter him and bolster what attributes he had. There would be a lot of "you are exceptionally handsome, and I am not at all resilient to your charms," being thrown around by her.
While my ability to afford this or any other MB&F watch may never come to fruition, I'm totally sold on the concept. MB&F appreciation is turning into a lifestyle, along with a mere love of their products. There is already the concept of the "MB&F man" (being one who trusts his own tastes enough to not request approval from others), and most all other avant garde luxury watches are immediately compared to what MB&F has cooked. Does MB&F really care that they are set as some high-bar for weird mechanical watches? Not particularly - though they are flattered by the title and position. Max Busser (and friends) will continue to develop cool watches that they want to see being made. It just so happens their taste is a bit infectious. After seeing and wearing the Thunderbolt, I have an acute case of Horological Machinitis!
The Jaeger-LeCoultre designed and manufactures Caliber 781 and 780 movements are very impressive. Most of the bridges are in black and the design of the movement is very modern. No more superman watches, with super vintage looking movements inside. Jaeger-LeCoultre knows how to keep mechanical fresh. The movement has a 60 hour power reserve, and some impressive specs that you can learn about below. It also has a ton of functions. Aside from the time (with a subsidiary seconds dial that double as the chronograph hour indicator), it has a 24 hour chronograph with digital minute counter, centrally placed GMT hand, date, and unique peripheral power reserve indicator. The crown also features a unique function selector. The crown is not pulled out, but rather has a built in pusher than controls one of three functions (winding, GMT adjustment, time adjustment). Pushing the button in the crown cycles between the three, and you always know what you are doing because there is a crown function indicator on the dial dear the date window at 3 o'clock.
While you have the time in an analog fashion, you also have the ability to have the time digitally in the lower left digital LCD window. This is sometimes easier depending on your preferences - or when reading the time at night. Which brings me to a issue with at least some of the GA100 watches. The analog hands have no lume, but the hour indicators around the dial do have lume. Why this is? I don' t know. There is a backlight in the form of a lower mounted LED light, but when it is turned on in the dark it sort of washes out the LCD screens and makes the hands not super easy to read (especially the red hour hand on this color combo). For me, this means that while it is not impossible to read the GA100 at night, it is not an ideal G-Shock for this purpose. There are others though that excel at night reading.
I haven’t heard the watch strike in person so I can’t comment on the acoustics. Breguet pride themselves on putting a lot of time and resources into technical achievements so I can safely presume the watch sounds great.
In addition to the green hour markers and hands, there is some green aluminum on the helium release valve that is meant to add some style. I still don't think the watch is meant to be a fashion timepiece, but that isn't its point. It is a happy, and stalwart tool that adds enough flair to never be boring. Christopher Ward put a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement inside the watch. This is basically a Swiss made clone of the ETA 2824. Attached to the watch is a pretty basic rubber diving strap with that standard "wave" pattern near the lugs for added flex and comfort. The strap is very comfortable. It is a bit tough to get the excess strap in the loops, but many rubber straps are. I had no problems with the strap, but those who want to "dress" up their C600 might want to experiment with other straps that add a bit more flair to the design.
In terms of colors, the AT models have many. There are currently 12 versions of the watch in all manners of colors. My favorite is the devilish looking red and black model above, though they all have their use. The watches are available on leather or rubber straps. Vittorium is quick to point out that even their rubber straps are Swiss made. This is actually very hard to find in watches with this price. You can check out the full line of Vittorium AT watches here.