The FC-945 movement offers the hours and minutes, synchronized 24-hour hand (which more-or-less acts as an AM/PM indicator), date dial, and moon phase indicator. It joins the very similar "cousin" movement which is the Frédérique Constant FC-942 in some other watches (with different dials). What is the difference between the FC-942 and the FC-945? The latter has the 24 hour indicator while the former doesn't and offers a bit more of a symmetrical layout for cleaner dials. For the time being, Frederique Constant Manufacture Heart Beat FC-942 watches also come with black versus silver-tone dials.
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This makes for cufflinks that work with any watch, really. If yours happens to be a chronograph (the watch, that is), then you are not going to be concerned that the cufflinks aren't an exact match - because they simply cannot be (that said, they do have some model-specific links that have been approved by the actual watch brands themselves, if you are looking for an exact match). In fact, it is one of the brand-approved models (they also have ones from Clerc and Zenith in the works) that I spent more time with in the latter portion of our review time - the Giuliano Mazzuoli Transmissione Meccanica. If you recall, we took a look at this transmission-inspired watch before, and it has a rather distinctive style.
The Harry Winston Opus 3 is the only watch I have seen that speaks to the architectural side of my life and is an art deco building reduced to the size of a wrist watch, while retaining the bold expression of its original intent. The UN Freak's complexity hides it's inherent simplicity of an idea. All these watches, to me, in one way or another, transcend the field of watches and take it to an entirely new level of consciousness.
Why harp of that inevitability? Probably because I'd love to fantasize that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 is capable of being a daily wear for years and years and perform like a reliable Toyota. I suppose you can't have everything. I can say that compared to many other highly complicated mechanical watches, at least the titanium version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 comes with an agreeable retail price to begin with - and the Jaeger-LeCoultre service center in Switzerland tends to receive high praise from its customers. With that said, let's explore a bit more of the interesting and probably over-engineered elements of the 569-part Calibre 780 automatic movement.
The reference 912.ND.0123.RX Hublot MP-12 Key Of Time Skeleton watch is limited to 20 pieces and is priced at 8,000. hublot.com
Victorinox Swiss Army has promoted the fact that they devised 130 tests designed to measure the durability of the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX across a range of factors. A promotional event last year in New York was designed to show off some of these tests and included watches being boiled, tumbled in a washing machine, frozen, and more. I've asked the company to tell me more about these 130 tests, and they explained that at least some of them are trade secrets that they do not wish reveal. That is understandable, but they did offer this list of 26 of them, which illustrates what the INOX collection needed to endure during the development process:
Victorinox Swiss Army I.N.O.X. - Top 26/130 Durability Tests
- #37/130 - Strap: Torsion angle (130° / 5000 cycles) Example: the watch can be twisted up to 130 degrees during 5,000 wash cycles without breaking.
- #39/130 - Strap: Color resistance in water (72 hours in distilled water)
- #40/130 - Strap: Bending resistance (2,000 cycles x 30 cycles per minute)
- #43/130 - Strap: UV resistance (UV light 300W – 72 hours)
- #44/130 - Strap: Synthetic perspiration (48 hours at 104°F)
- #47/130 - Strap: Salt fog/corrosion resistance (95°F ± 36°F / humidity 90 and 100% during 72 hours)
- #127/130 - Pin buckle: Salt fog resistance (95°F ± 36°F / humidity 90 to 100% during 72 hours)
- #48/130 - Strap: Discoloration resistance (humidity 95 ~ 100% HR / PH 4.7 / 104°F ± 36°F during 7 days)
- #112/130 - Watch: Discoloration resistance (humidity 95 ~ 100% HR / PH 4.7 / 104°F ± 36°F during 7 days)
- #61/130 - Dial: 1m drop resistance of index/markers. Example: 26 consecutive “one meter high” drops onto a solid surface
- #63/130 - Dial: UV resistance (UV light 300W – 72 hours)
- #18/130 - Sapphire Glass: Vertical dropping of a steel ball directly onto the sapphire glass (1600 to 2100.10-4 N.m.)
- #16/130 - Sapphire glass: Force resistance (100N, 30 seconds). Example: 10m drop resistance
- #117/130 - Watch case: Thermal shocks resistance (5 times : 2 hours at 158°F / water immersion at 41°F). Example: 90 Degrees Celsius for 2 hours in a washing machine.
- #97/130 - Watch case with movement: Shock and acceleration resistance (from 250 to 5500m/s2). Example: Bracelet vibration test - 500’000 vibration cycles (vs. a regular bracelet model undergoes 50’000)
- #98/130 - Watch case: Air resistance (328 ft. = 10 bars)
- #99/130 - Watch case: Water resistance to 1,640 ft. / 656 ft.
- #101/130 - Watch case: Shock resistance (pendulum testing machine)
- #126/130 - External parts: Heat and humidity resistance (7 days at 90% humidity and 104°F)
- #119/130 - External parts: Corrosion resistance (95°F ± 36°F / humidity 90 and 100% during 72 hours)
- #120/130 - External parts: Synthetic perspiration (48 hours at 104°F)
- #121/130 - External parts: Radiation test (≤0.2uSv/hr) uSv is called “microsievert”
- #122/130 - External parts: Air resistance (Deltarox)
- #123/130 - External parts: Traction resistance (70N – 150N/1 minute)
- #124/130 - External parts: Shock resistance (pendulum testing machine)
- #125/130 - External parts: Thermal shocks resistance (5 times : 2 hours at 158°F / water immersion at 41°F)
That last statement has an important implication - which is that the new Oysterflex strap (which Rolex calls a bracelet) only fits on these new 2015 Rolex Yacht-Master watch cases. Rolex is pretty notorious for making it difficult to "part swap" pieces from one Rolex watch to another, and unfortunately, you will not be able to purchase the Oysterflex strap independently.
Movado recently began quietly shipping this new Movado Museum Dial Classic watch collection to its retailers. The new watch model is a slight revision on the longstanding Movado Museum Dial watch collection that has been around for what feels like ages. In the early 2000s, the apparent ubiquity in previous years of Movado Museum Dial timepieces seemed to slowly subside from mainstream culture, replaced by a host of other timepiece styles. This change happened without a bang, and I don't think that many people gave too much notice to the lowering popularity of the Movado Museum Dial watch. Movado, of course, never stopped making Museum Dial timepieces, and in fact, the last decade or so has had more Movado Museum Dial style designs than ever before.
1. Comment on this post below (on aBlogtoWatch.com, not Facebook, or elsewhere you might see this article) before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required (if you've signed up for the commenting system before, your e-mail should already be in there). In the body of your comment, mention your answer to the question: Do you like the idea of wearing a dress watch that doubles as tactical/military/survival watch? Also, in your opinion, what are some of the most elegant true tool watches that you can also wear properly with a suit?
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Good luck, and thanks to Martenero Watches, the sponsor of the Martenero Model II: Founder watch giveaway here at aBlogtoWatch!
As a hand-wound movement, the crown is thankfully large and comfortable - though you do need to wind the movement up a bit. The movement design is very much trying to be industrial and comment on the character of Oris as making "real watches for real people." I like that philosophy and appreciate that Oris isn't suddenly trying to make a watch that would look better with someone else's name on it. Oris also isn't going too upmarket with the Oris 110 Years Limited Edition. While the price is a bit more than you'll find for most of their other dress watches, these are by no means the most expensive watches they offer (at least in steel). Having said that, if you are just looking for a decent looking daily wear with a good movement and sensible traditional looks, you could save a few grand and find something a bit more simple.