As we neared our dive site the waves grew larger and the current stronger. This was my second day of diving and the boat crew felt the conditions were too strong to moor on a wreck. Instead, we would be drift diving. The boat would attempt to hold a position up-current from a series of wrecks and, using the current for transport, we would try and visit as many sites possible before our air supplies forced our ascent.
The 41mm rose gold case is noticeably sharp. Its plain, straight sides, and angular bezel give the whole watch the appearance of size, despite remaining comfortable to wear – the case comes in at a remarkable 8.24mm tall. Due to the starkness of the flanks, the watch is able to satisfy the modern requirement for presence, while remaining slight enough to fit comfortably under a cuff. The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph retains a consistent identity through the use of stout, polished pushers that blend in with the otherwise uncluttered silhouette. The pushers need to be there because it's a chronograph, but their presence is muted and all the better for it.
If you like the look of the 2015 limited edition Grand Seiko 62GS case and want something a bit more interesting (or light weight), then you can opt for the Grand Seiko 62GS models with caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movements (mechanical watch with a special quartz regulation system for enhanced accuracy) with 72 hours of power reserve. These are extremely pleasant on the wrist in the 40mm-wide titanium cases and add a power reserve indicator to the dial, thanks to the movement. Accuracy goes up to a deviation of about one second or less per day. For these Grand Seiko 62GS Spring Drive watches, you can opt for the SBGA125 with textured cream dial or the SBGA127 with the metallic blue dial.
It all starts with a vintage pocket watch movement that Zenith restored and decorated, known as the caliber 5011 (caliber 5011K). This movement is about 50mm wide, so you understand why the case itself is so large. I haven't discussed numbers yet, but from the look of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu you can tell it is huge - which it no doubt is. Back in our original article on the Zenith Montre d-Aeronef Pilot Type 20 watch, we talked more about what makes this movement special. What you need to know here is that it has 48 hours of power reserve, with the dial, subsidiary seconds dial, and power reserve indicator on the dial. The 5011 movement is also supposed to be pretty accurate - at least by reputation. A hint to that is the "Chronometre" text label on the dial of the watch. Oh, and the movement in this watch is also COSC Chronometer certified.
Most pertinently, the design of the Uhrenfabrik Junghans Max Bill range brings to mind the Lambda by Nomos. This clinical, bauhaus-inspired, form-driven design is typically German, and something of which I am a huge fan. The layout is so easily digestible and so readily legible, it is almost invisible to the brain. Without the slightest distraction, it is possible to tell the time. But where did this classic come from and why should we care?
Next, we check out comedian Kevin Hart’s watch collection and also spend some time with Omega President Stephen Urquhart to find out what his plans for Omega are and talk about the inspiration behind some of their newest watches. Finally, we take a detailed look at Seiko’s incredible Eichi II watch and compare it against Laurent Ferrier’s Galet Micro-Rotor and Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity.
The Rado Hyperchrome XXL Court Collecion "Grass Court" is priced at ,300 on the rubber strap and ,600 with a ceramic bracelet. For that money, you get a beautifully integrated design – if that is your thing – comprising a case that is going to stand the tests of time remarkably well, a decorated movement with a no lesser reputation, and a rubber strap that is among the most comfortable, regardless the price point; although I'd be tempted to somehow get the watch with both the strap and the bracelet. rado.com
TAG Heuer Ayrton Senna Watch Resurrected With New Models
30 Commentsby Ariel Adams
TAG Heuer Ayrton Senna Watch Resurrected With New Models
The case is 42mm wide, rendered in white gold, and is fully mirror polished. The big unguarded crown sits at 3 o’clock and at 8 and 10 o’clock you have thick-looking pushers that are used to adjust local time. These pushers also feature patent-pending safety locks to prevent the wearer from unintentionally adjusting the time. The pushers must be released first with a quarter turn before they can be activated, and once adjustment is done, the wearer can lock the pushers in place by turning in the opposite direction.
While the Recital 12 and Recital 15 are both based on the same movement base, they are quite different in how they are laid out and the Bovet Recital 15 makes a case for itself with the almost three extra millimeters of thickness. One of the most interesting features is the "double seconde coaxiale" system. The subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o'clock goes right through to the back of the movement, and there are double seconds hands. However, the two seconds hands are not directly connected by a single axle. That would imply that if the seconds hand is running clockwise on the front of the dial, it would run counter-clockwise on the rear of the dial. Instead, there is special gearing in the movement to ensure that the seconds hand is running clockwise on both sides of the dial. Not super functional, but still rather cool, and a nice detail.
The Scuderia Ferrari Formula Italia collection contains both three-hand and chronograph models that are sized 43mm wide and 45mm wide, respectively. These have a tonneau-shaped steel case with a round dial and a retro dashboard instrument appeal. Little touches like the knurling on the outside bezel and the crown are nice details which I hope lend themselves to a higher-end feel for these sub 0 timepieces. Over the dials are domed mineral crystal and the cases are water resistant to 50 meters.
Inside the 2015 Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer watch is the Omega in-house made caliber 8912 automatic movement. This is the "no date" version of the 8900 and operates at 3.5Hz with a power reserve of 60 hours. It is really a great movement for all those times you are concerned about harsh magnetic fields while diving 1000 meters or more under watch. Are those not situations you frequently find yourself in?
Even though the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is totally absurd when it comes to the size, engraving, sapphire crystal case, and overall theme, I sort of love it. I like how niche and exclusive it is. I like that the watch was produced seemingly with no target audience or demographic in mind. I like that I feel like one crazy person at Zenith wanted this watch to happen, so they made a few of them. The complexity of making the case, doing all the engravings, and the limited nature of the movements all add to why this is something that must be a limited edition. People might see this and think "there is no way this is really from Zenith," but it is - and that is what I like about it. I wish brands would more often take the opportunity to do something totally against their character as the foundation for a limited edition watch.
Baselworld is much more about all price brackets, and for the most part, I think it is safe to say that “good value” was something a lot of brands had in mind for their 2015 releases. That means lower priced models not only for the major groups, but also from the high-end independents where lower prices might mean ,000 versus 0,000. The message to us was that the market was not only interested in lower-priced models, but expensive timepieces that deliver excellent value.
Last in the RM025 movement is the chronograph. Its most interesting feature is its use of a titanium column wheel transmission system. The chronograph uses the central seconds hand as well as the subsidiary minute counter near 9 o'clock on the dial. While it isn't for everyone, I love Richard Mille's philosophy of making the mechanical movement the star in each of their watches. While the designs of their movements are as modern as their cases, the finishing is very nicely done, with polished surfaces and beveled edges. Legibility in reading the time isn't that bad either, with the large, lume-filled hands (and lume-filled hour markers).
Like all other Turbine watches the Perrelet Turbine Skeleton has a jet engine style turbine that is weighted from the bottom and spins with the momentum of your wrist. The fast, fluid motion of the turbine creates a fun sense of visual interest on the watch. With the hands (and hour markers) highly visible and on top of the turbine dial rotor, this allows the watch to remain very legible. Its a fun concept that I think a lot of watch lovers can still get behind, even if you don't need more than one Turbine in your collection.
All those features together are nice and good, and the experience is surprisingly refined given what you get with most of the watch-industry related apps out there. Govberg's Danny Govberg mentioned bringing aboard a new development team and finally subscribing to the business axiom I'd like to believe I helped set in motion - "when working on a project related to watches, it is best to have everyone involved actually love watches."
"Cost of Entry" is a new column series on aBlogtoWatch that explores what it costs to purchase the least expensive model offered by a popular watch company. In each installment, we will seek out and discuss in detail the most affordable currently available model from some of the most desirable watch brands on the market. We will mostly focus on men's watches unless we specifically mention otherwise.
Starting off with the big (well, bigger) gun, the IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon is what it says on the cover – and, in fact, quite a bit more. The tourbillon, as you may have seen in the video of the 0,000 Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia, has a "dead-beat" ticking motion to it, advancing once every second – like a normal seconds hand on most quartz watches. What's responsible for that is the patented constant-force mechanism that ensures that the amplitude of the balance, and hence, timekeeping accuracy remain consistent.
For 2015, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Automatic Skeleton is available in three different styles. There are two versions in 18k pink gold (one set with diamonds) as well as a really neat looking Excalibur Automatic Skeleton in a black DLC-coated titanium case. While the pink gold models are certainly the more straight forward “luxury watches,” the DLC black titanium model has a wonderful mysterious yet complicated look to it that is further complimented by the dark gray finishing of the movement bridges.